The Zaccaria family (photo by nick valinote)

Welcome to Venice (Park)

Tucked away in one of Atlantic City’s most authentic and charming neighborhoods, The Old Waterway Inn is perched on a serene section of the Intracoastal Waterway known locally as Beach Thorofare.

Owned and operated for more than 20 years by Chef Michael Zaccaria and wife Dawn, the menu leans heavily, fittingly, on products of the sea.

Michael, who began his restaurant career at the earliest legal age (14) possesses a lengthy and diverse culinary background. His list of previous postings includes prestigious casino operations like Harrah’s The Meadows, Ivana’s at Trump Plaza and Caesars’ Primavera.

Although South Philly Italian by heritage, Zaccaria’s personal influences run a broad gamut. He mentions drawing ideas for dishes from travel experiences to the Greek Isles, Hawaii and Caribbean. Ask him about an inspirational chef and he’ll ponder for a moment, then come up with old-school French master Jacques Pepin — “classically trained, but wasn’t snobby at all” — one of the earliest successful television entrepreneurs.

We like to think of superb soups as being one of the most consistent barometers of a well-run kitchen. On our last visit here we sampled a lobster bisque — one of two house broths always on the menu — that was alone well worth the trip. Its first cousin, eastern shore crab bisque, is the other standard offering. The Old Waterway also produces a third selection nightly.

When queried as to his most popular entrees, Zaccaria immediately mentions jumbo scallops Capri. The creamy crustaceans are first pan-seared, then plated with a sundried tomato/caper/roasted garlic accompaniment.

Another item he’s particularly enamored of is a 14-ounce boneless rib-eye steak. The grilled beef is served with caramelized onions, bleu cheese and a red wine and shallot-based reduction sauce.

From the more exotic side of his bill of fare, the chef offers a pecan-crusted mahi-mahi, finished with a ginger/tamari (Japanese soy) sauce.

This time of year, however, the Old Waterway’s namesake locale becomes a major focus. The wraparound outside deck area, with seating for 80 patrons, “is the main draw for us,” according to Zaccaria.Customers are so desirous of the spectacular back-bay vistas that “they wait at the bar for a seat on the deck.”

Boaters are more than welcomed too, as the Old Waterway offers them easy access and free dockage while dining.

The physical property itself is a functional as well as a visual delight. In the rear of the restaurant, Zaccaria tends a garden, which produces his own heirloom tomatoes and various herbs employed in the kitchen.

The chef demonstrates the depth of his culinary savvy when discussing his chosen profession. Characterizing the stacked-food trend of the ’90’s as “architectural cooking” he goes on to humorously describe some heavy-handed kitchen personnel — not his own, of course — as “grunts and cement mixers.”

Two things he does take deadly serious are clientele and food preparation. Cooks working his line are admonished to work with great care and “put out every item of food as if they’re eating it.”

His business, presently entering its third decade, is blessed with “very, very loyal customers” and they are treated “like personal house guests.” So much so that one of his employees, server Ann Marie Mallamaci, a 12-year veteran, personally bakes homemade cookies for customers.

With precious little land left undeveloped on Absecon Island, the Old Waterway provides a breezy, nostalgic, open-air environment. And a chance to experience Venice Park, one of Atlantic City’s few remaining secret little places.